Tibetan monastery among pine trees in Dharamshala with the snowy Himalayas behind it

Expedition · Himachal Pradesh, India

Dharamshala

Monasteries, Himalayan trails and tea gardens, with friends who live there.

Dharamshala clings to the slopes where the Indian foothills break into the snowy peaks of the Himalayas. Up above the town, in McLeod Ganj, lives the Dalai Lama, and with him the Tibetan community that came here in exile more than sixty years ago and brought its monasteries, its prayers and the taste of home cooking along.

The journey begins in New Delhi, and from the moment you land, everything else is on us. We give Delhi a day to wash over you with its noise, colour and smells, then board a train heading north. The plains slowly rise into hills outside the window, and at the end of the line a taxi is waiting to take us up the winding road into the mountains.

You don't need to be a seasoned traveller to come along. We travel in a small group at an unhurried pace, so it works for anyone curious about India, children included.

What you're reading is only a sketch. If it speaks to you, write to us and we'll send a PDF with the full plan, day by day.

I'm interested
Group
4–8 people
Length
about 14 days
Start
New Delhi
Who it's for
anyone, kids welcome
Best time
March–June, September–November
Price
on request

What we do there

  1. 01

    Monasteries

    Tibetan temples, morning prayers and prayer wheels in McLeod Ganj.

  2. 02

    Himalayan trails

    A hike up to the Triund ridge with views of the Dhauladhar range.

  3. 03

    Tea gardens

    Quiet green slopes of the Kangra valley and the families who work them.

  4. 04

    Local life

    Food, markets and evenings with friends who live in Dharamshala.

  5. 05

    Photo & video

    We document the whole trip for you (photos and video). All you have to do is look around.

Golden-roofed Tibetan monastery among pine trees with snowy Himalayan peaks behind it
From our trip

Dharamshala

Every roof here has the Himalayas rising behind it. Dharamshala as we came to know it, with friends who live there.

Two Buddhist monks in red robes under prayer flags on a forest path
Hills above McLeod Ganj The trails above town run through pine forest under thousands of prayer flags. The monks walk up to pray, we walk up for the view, and we meet halfway.
Dog resting under colourful prayer flags in a pine forest in Dharamshala
Prayer flags Every flag carries a prayer, and the wind is said to carry it out into the world. The local dogs take it calmly and sleep through the afternoon in their shade.
Row of golden prayer wheels with Tibetan script
Home of the Dalai Lama The Dalai Lama lives in McLeod Ganj, and Tibetan culture is simply part of the day here. People spin the prayer wheels as they pass, without slowing their step.
Two monks in red robes walking down a street of shops in McLeod Ganj
McLeod Ganj The main lane belongs to monks in maroon robes, shawl sellers, momo stalls and the smell of spiced chai. Best explored without a map.
Green tea garden with trees on a hillside near Dharamshala
Tea gardens One day Ashish took us down the valley on scooters. The tea bushes roll across the slopes in neat green waves, and the bustle of the town stays somewhere up above.
Black and white view of snowy Dhauladhar peaks with a vulture flying above
Dhauladhar range The peaks of the Dhauladhar rise so close above town that it feels you could throw a stone at them. High above, vultures circle in no hurry at all.
Grey langur monkey sitting above the valley at sunset with mountains behind
Neighbours Monkeys, dogs, cows and people share the streets, the rooftops and the view. A langur on the next wall watches the sunset as closely as we do.

Local friends

Who's waiting for you

We don't do this alone. These are the people who know the places, the language and how things work, and who look after you on the ground.

Ashish Sahani with TOTO Studio under prayer flags in Dharamshala

Trip organiser · and above all, our good friend

Ashish Sahani

Born in Varanasi, living in Dharamshala. Organising trips is his work: transport, places to stay, local guides and all the small things that make a journey run smoothly. Back in Varanasi he takes guests out on the Ganges with his own boats.

@trailbyashish @via_boat
Jigme Namdol sitting on the steps of a house in Dharamshala with TOTO Studio

Photographer · Dharamshala

Jigme Namdol

Known to everyone as Jignam. Born in Lhasa, he left Tibet as a child and has spent the last ten years photographing India and Nepal, mostly on film, selling his prints on the streets of McLeod Ganj. With him you see Dharamshala's Tibetan community from the inside.

Portfolio @jignam1
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